France vs. Italy: Our fave new releases

Four new arrivals just hit the shelf from two of wine's most storied countries. The lineup runs from Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc to Northern Rhône Syrah to a pair of Brunellos from opposite sides of Montalcino — covering everything from a crisp weeknight opener to a bottle worth decanting for a long Saturday dinner. Every producer here farms organically or with minimal intervention, and every wine scores 94 points or higher from major critics. The Sancerre and Saint-Joseph represent two distinct French terroirs — Kimmeridgian limestone versus decomposed granite — while the two Brunellos show how elevation and soil shift Sangiovese's personality across a single appellation. The common thread is families with deep roots, some stretching back over 400 years.

Jean-Max Roger Sancerre Cuvée Marnes & Caillottes 2025 comes from one of Sancerre's most historic families in the village of Bué, where the Roger name appears in texts dating to the early 17th century. Jean-Max took over four hectares in the 1970s and expanded to 26 hectares across more than 40 plots — now managed alongside sons Etienne and Thibault, who joined in 2004. This cuvée blends fruit from two Kimmeridgian-era soil types: stony Oxfordian limestone caillottes, which contribute finesse and aromatic lift, and clay-rich marnes, which add power and length. Organically farmed at a vine density of 7,000–8,000 plants per hectare, the wine spends six months aging in bottle before release. Expect bright citrus, wet stone, and flint aromatics with a saline, mineral-driven finish.

Alain Graillot Saint-Joseph 2023 carries forward the methods Alain Graillot established after apprenticing with Jacques Seysses at Domaine Dujac in 1985. Alain bought 22 hectares of alluvial gravel in Crozes-Hermitage and built one of the Northern Rhône's most respected domaines before his death in 2022 — sons Maxime and Antoine have led winemaking since 2008. The Saint-Joseph comes from [two small parcels] of 30-plus-year-old Syrah on steep decomposed granite, producing a fresher, more vertical wine than the estate's Crozes bottlings. Hand-harvested, 100% whole cluster, fermented on indigenous yeasts in concrete, then aged in one-to-three-year-old Burgundy barrels. At 94 points from James Suckling, expect dark cherry, spiced plum, wild herbs, and pencil shaving over fine tannins and salty iodine mineral tones.

Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona Brunello di Montalcino 2021 traces its origin to 1985, when Countess Elda Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona gifted the estate to longtime manager Giuseppe Bianchini. Siblings Paolo and Lucia Bianchini now farm 35 certified organic hectares in Castelnuovo dell'Abate, Montalcino's southeastern flank. The vineyards sit at 240–360 meters on iron-rich, Eocene-period marl soils, sheltered by Mount Amiata's mass with strong natural air circulation. Only sulfur and copper treatments touch the vines. Sangiovese ferments in temperature-controlled stainless steel before 30–36 months in large Slavonian oak. The 2021 earned 96 points from James Suckling for its violet, lavender, licorice, and Morello cherry aromatics over silky, crunchy tannins and a caressing finish. Best after 2028.

Mocali Brunello di Montalcino 2021 represents Montalcino's founding generation. Dino Ciacci was one of 25 vignerons who established the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino in 1967 — the consortium now counts over 200 members. After a brutal 1985 frost destroyed the estate's olive groves, grandson Tiziano Ciacci and wife Alessandra Mililotti replaced them with Sangiovese vines and bottled their first Brunello in 1990. Production grew from 500 cases to 5,000 across 20 hectares of galestro soils at 400 meters on Montalcino's southwest slope. The 2021 ferments in stainless steel before one year in large Slavonian oak and two in French oak botte. Wine Spectator awarded 95 points, citing macerated cherry, licorice, wild herb, and menthol with silken texture and a mineral-tinged finish. Best from 2028–2043.