SHELTER ZINFANDEL 2011

Napa Zinfandel is often overshadowed by Cabernet, but Shelter Wine Company treats it as a serious blending project — David Stevens sources professionally fermented fruit from undisclosed high-elevation Napa Valley vineyards and assembles the final wine himself. The result draws on the region's volcanic and alluvial soils to deliver ripe blackberry, dried cherry, and a hint of black pepper, with a mid-palate that runs plush but avoids the jammy excess that plagues many California Zins. Finishes with warm spice and moderate tannin.