Meo Camuzet - Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2020 (750ml)

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Producer	Meo Camuzet
Country	France
Region	Burgundy
Subregion	Vougeot
Varietal	Pinot Noir
Vintage	2020
Sku	38033
Size	750ml

 

WA

93-95

BH

92-94

JR

18

Founded in the early 20th century by Étienne Camuzet, a French Parliament member who acquired exceptional Burgundy vineyards, including prime plots in Clos de Vougeot. His daughter, Maria Noirot, bequeathed the domain to distant relative Jean Méo in 1959. Initially managed under sharecropping agreements, the estate began selling under its own label in 1985 and progressively took charge of its vineyards after 1988. Today, Jean-Nicolas Méo, assisted by Henri Jayer and Christian Faurois, runs the estate. Their philosophy emphasizes creating structured yet delicate wines that reflect their terroir, using careful vine-growing techniques, hand-harvesting, minimal intervention in winemaking, and well-planned barrel aging.

It is therefore a very special vintage, which has been bottled, after a few logistical disorders (see our chapter about "dry products"), now unfortunately a rather common occurence whatever the sector. 

With a rather high alcohol content, the wines are not at all heavy, held by a firm acidity that highlights aromas of black fruits, rather characteristic of a cold vintage!

The combination of high maturity and acidity is the dream of the Burgundian winemaker. This is a rare but not exceptional phenomenon since the vintages 1990, 1999, 2015 and to a lesser extent 2005, 2009 and 2019 can be considered to meet this characteristic. But it reached an unprecedented high in 2020.

Given their concentration, these wines will need time, including for "entry-level". While they do seduce by their aromatics, in the mouth, they exhibit some tension, which leads us to say that keeping them for some time is a better option.

The personalities of the terroirs have emerged during aging and in this powerful vintage, we find the finesse of Chambolle, the distinction of Vosne, the structure of Nuits, the complexity of Clos Vougeot and Richebourg ... Patience will be required however, as these are serious, structured wines that do not want to be taken lightly. 

Paradoxically, this does not necessarily mean we'll see an aromatic closure in the bottle, given the strong acidity which should allow the freshness of the fruit to show for a long time. But evolution will be slow and certainly very profitable for these wines which will undoubtedly represent bottles of anthology in the decades to come!

We are very seduced by this wine: the bouquet expresses itself with a lot of concentration. The fruit, of high quality, blends perfectly with the wood notes. Floral and empyreumatic aromas stand out subtly, complemented by roasted and finely toasted accents.

The beginning in the mouth is very elegant. The texture is caressing. The follow-up is dense, tapered and sapid. Very nice length on the finish, which does not yet deliver its full potential.

It is a frank and dynamic wine, whose virile structure and substance will be appreciated. A stunning Clos de Vougeot! And promised to a bright future. Can be kept for 12 to 15 years.

The 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is very promising, unfurling in the glass with aromas of wild berries, cherries, orange rind, potpourri and loamy soil. Full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, it's seamless and complete, with superb depth at the core and a long, resonant finish. It will be fascinating to compare with the 2019 rendition in two decades' time.  William Kelley

Discreet but still perceptible wood-suffuses the ripe aromas of black cherry, currant, newly turned earth and a floral top note. There is a lovely sense of underlying tension to the palate coating and nicely detailed medium weight plus flavors that offers excellent depth and persistence on the relatively refined if youthfully austere finale. This is more structured than it usually is and is a wine that is going to require at least a decade of aging first.

Cask sample. Oak dominating at the moment but there is such a wonderful cushion of ripe fruit, velvety tannins and fresh acidity, this will develop into a spectacular Clos de Vougeot given 3–5 years' ageing. Juicy, succulent, no harsh edges, muscular but also refined. (AWH)