Castello Colle Massari — San Giorgio - Brunello di Montalcino 'Ugolforte' 2019 (750ml)

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Producer	Castello Colle Massari — San Giorgio
Country	Italy
Region	Tuscany
Subregion	Montalcino
Varietal	Sangiovese Grosso
Vintage	2019
Sku	38887
Size	750ml

 

V

94

Labelled by all as the vintage of the century, from an oenological point of view, for its nearperfect weather for winegrowing, 2019 gifted us an Ugolforte that is more appealing, approachable, yet eminently cellarable as well. The grapes reached peak ripeness in every parcel and the harvest took place in textbook time, starting in the first third of September and finishing in late October.

This vintage of Ugolforte displays an intensely-aromatic nose, with a constant duet of floral and fruit notes, backgrounded by crisp wild herbs and hints of pungent balsam. The palate is broad and full, with considerable weight, while pronounced but fine-grained tannins are complemented by a continuous vein of acidity that animates the wine from first to last.

Ugolforte 2019 is grown in vineyards averaging 20-25 years old, lying at elevations between 250-400 metres in Castelnuovo Dell'Abate, in the southeast quadrant of Montalcino. The soils are nutrient-poor and rocky, composed largely of clay and tuff, with admixtures of sandstone and galestro marl. Vineyard management based on organic practices deeply respectful of the environment encourages a totally natural vegetation-crop balance. All the grapes are hand-harvested, with meticulous in-vineyard quality selection. Fermentation is in oak vats, with lengthy macerations, after which the wine matures for 36 months in 30- 50hl Slavonian oak ovals. It was bottled in May 2023. The wine is named for Ugoforte, a famous local brigand who in the 12th century led the Montalcino populace against the Sienese occupation.

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte opens with a minty freshness as flint stone and dusty rose give way to crushed cherries. Silky and pliant, this possesses an elegance not often seen, with violet and lavender tones accentuating its polished red and blue fruits. This tapers off with sweet tannins balanced by an orange hint. A structured yet mouth-watering sensation lingers on. What a beauty this is.