Dom Bruno Clair - Marsannay La Charme Aux Pretres 2021 (750ml)

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Producer	Dom Bruno Clair
Country	France
Region	Burgundy
Subregion	Marsannay
Varietal	Pinot Noir
Vintage	2021
Sku	38849
Size	750ml

  

BH

88-91

Bruno Clair's sons Edouard and Arthur have largely taken over the day-to-day responsibilities of running the domaine and this year the tasting was conducted by the latter. His view of the 2021 vintage was brutally straightforward in that "my father, whose been doing this for decades, calls it the most difficult in a very long time. The frost wiped out fully 50% of the crop in pinot and an incredible 70% in chardonnay. We of course tried to protect some of the earliest budding vineyards with warming candles but they didn't seem to do much good. However, if that's all that we faced it wouldn't have been so bad but the disease pressure, especially botrytis as we neared the harvest, was notably problematic. We picked from the 22nd of September and some parcels needed careful sorting and others almost none at all. Potential alcohols were perfectly fine at between 12 and 12.5% and a few wines were chaptalized. We used around 40% whole clusters for the vinification during a total cuvaison of 13 to 15 days. We vinified most softly than usual but this isn't to say that it was completely hands off as during that period we punched each cuvée down 5 to times. Despite all of the difficulties, we actually are extremely happy with the quality of the reds and especially with our Gevrey-based wines." I would echo Arthur Clair's view of the quality because while there is good to excellent quality everywhere in their portfolio, the Gevrey-based wines do indeed really stand out.

Moderate reduction is enough to push the underlying fruit to the background. There is both excellent energy and detail to the slightly more concentrated medium weight flavors that possess a notably finer texture thanks to the fine-grained tannins supporting the more complex and balanced finale.