The Dönnhoff family has been producing wine in the Nahe region for over 200 years, with Helmut Dönnhoff at the helm since 1971 and now joined by his son Cornelius. Their 25 hectares of Erste Lage vineyards, including Oberhäuser Leistenberg, Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg, Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle, Oberhäuser Brücke, Norheimer Dellchen, Norheimer Kirscheck, and Kreuznacher Krötenpfuhl, are considered some of the best in Germany. The family's winemaking philosophy emphasizes natural and organic practices, including dry farming, hand harvesting, and spontaneous fermentation in traditional German casks and stainless steel. This approach results in wines known for their elegance, acidity, and mineralic character, with each vineyard site showcasing its unique terroir.
If you are a terroir fundamentalist, then this enormous depth of smoky and wild-herb character will light your fire, but otherwise approach with caution. With the second and third sip you feel the attractive, grapefruity side of the wine. Then comes the paradox. There is also a touch of grapefruit-pith bitterness at the radically mineral finish, and this adds to the excitement. From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification. Drink or hold.
The 2020 Felsenberg GG is deep, intense and complex on the pure and elegant, well-defined and slightly flinty nose. Pure, intense and juicy on the palate, this is a crystalline, refined and salty Felsenberg with great terroir expression and length, even though the wine is still puristic or even ascetic in the finish. Not as charmingly fruity as Crusius’s interpretation but with the same length and tension. 13% alcohol. Tasted at the domain in July 2021 and again six weeks later in Wiesbaden during the GG tastings. Stephan Reinhardt
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