Antonio Maderia - Vinhas Velhas Branco 2021 (750ml)

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Producer	Antonio Maderia
Country	Portugal
Region	Dao
Subregion	Serra de Estrela
Varietal	Fernao Pires,  Siria,  Bical,  Encruzado,  Cerceal Branco,  Arinto
Vintage	2021
Sku	39038
Size	750ml

   

WA

95

V

90

Antonio Madeira, born in Paris to Portuguese parents, is leading a renaissance in Portugal's Dao region with his natural wine approach. After falling in love with French wines and the natural wine movement, Madeira began making wine in the Serra da Estrela sub-region of Dao in 2010. He now manages 8 hectares of biodynamically farmed vineyards, cultivating over 45 indigenous grape varieties. Inspired by renowned winemakers like Jules Chauvet and Henri Jayer, Madeira produces a range of wines from entry-level to premium "cru" selections, all made with minimal intervention and low sulfur additions. His wines, particularly from old vines in high-elevation, granitic soils, are known for their depth, freshness, and elegance, drawing comparisons to fine Burgundy. Madeira's efforts are part of a broader revitalization of the Dao region, which is reclaiming its former status as a star wine area in Europe.

The old-vine white 2021 Vinhas Velhas Branco was produced with the fruit from some 15 small plots of old vines aged between 60 and 130 years of age and planted with a myriad of old varieties (Síria, Bical, Fernão Pires, Encruzado, Arinto, Cerceal and Malvasia Fina) on slopes with granite soils. It's inspired by the natural vinification of some Burgundy wines. It fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured in 500-liter barrels for 12 months and a further 10 months in stainless steel. It has moderate ripeness and alcohol (12%) with a pH of 3.33 and 5.29 grams of acidity. It has an incredible nose that is nuanced, complex, elegant and changing, with notes of herbs, wild flowers and earth. It has a very tasty and saline palate that is subtle with great purity of flavors, clean and precise. It reminds me of some whites from Ganevat. 7,900 bottles produced. As always, it was bottled with full malolactic, unfiltered and unfined. It was bottled in April 2023.

The 2021 Branco Vinhas Velhas is a field-blend of Encruzado, Bical, Cerceal, and other varieties, sourced from Dão. It was aged for one year in oak casks and another in steel vats. Golden in hue, it presents aromas of stewed apple and wild herbs, complemented by a subtle oak layer. Ample and refreshing on the palate, the fairly concentrated flavors and heightened acidity unfurl gracefully toward the finish.